Required
Items | Work Area
Setup | Preparing the Part | Preparing
for Curing | Preparing to Powder Coat |
Application of Powder | Curing
the Powder | Clean-Up | Reusing
the Powder | Putting Parts Back in Service
| Removing Cured Powder | Warnings
& Safety Tips | Environmental Concerns
| Troubleshooting
Required Items
Before you use the HotCoat™ Powder Coating
System make sure you have the following:
- An electric oven or toaster oven
large enough to fit the parts you will be coating. Do not use
an oven used for food preparation or located in a living area!
Do not use a gas oven.
- An air supply source for the gun.
A modest air compressor capable of at least .5 cfm at 5-8 psi
(the Paasche® Airbrush Compressor (#37072)
works great). You can even use a portable air tank with regulator.
- A clean, safe, well-lit, well-ventilated
work area (see safety
guidelines).
- An activated charcoal respirator
like our Professional Respirator (#34029).
- A pair of goggles (#43090)
to provide eye protection during coating and gun cleaning operations.
Work Area Setup
Ventilation
Set up work area to allow for good ventilation.
Oven
You must have access to an electric oven or toaster oven other than
the one used for food, as mildly toxic fumes are liberated from the
powder while curing. Used ovens can be found in appliance centers,
news papers, and yard sales. The oven must be in good working condition.
Containing the powder
Put down a clean tarp to collect powder dust for easy cleanup. Do
not use a vacuum unless it is equipped with an explosion-proof motor.
Electrical Supply
Use a convenient grounded 110-120VAC outlet or heavy-duty extension
cord to plug in the 6' power cord. NOTE: Unit must be grounded to
work properly and safely!
Air Supply
Need convenient access to an air line from a portable regulated air
tank or air compressor capable of being regulated down to less than
10 psi. The gun uses less than .5 cfm at 8 psi, so a modest compressor
will suffice.
Storage
Store unit and powder in a clean, dry area no hotter than 80° F.
Preparing the Part
Before You Start
Grease and Oil Removal
Metal part must be free of any oil, dirt, or other contaminants before
powder coating. Clean with Metal Wash (#10120)
or spray down with PRE Painting Prep (#10041Z).
Wipe and blow dry the part. Masking
the Part
Once the part is thoroughly dry the powder can be applied. Handle
the cleaned part with vinyl gloves to avoid contamination. Finger
prints can effect adhesion! Determine how the part should be positioned
in the oven before the coating process. Use the High Temperature
Plugs (#10078)
or High Temperature Tape (#10027)
to protect critical tolerance areas. Since the powder will coat
around corners be sure to mask all appropriate areas.
Preparing for Curing
Hanging or Placing the Part for Coating
Bend wire hooks to hold the part during powder application and curing.
Our .041 Stainless Steel Safety Wire (#43045)
works well for this application. Don't use a coated wire as debris
from the wire coating may fall on the part during the curing process.
High Temperature plugs (#10078)
can often be used to support the parts above the trays, and plug bolt
holes.
Preheating the Oven
Before powder coating the part - preheat the oven to the cure temperature
indicated on the powder container (usually 400°F, 204°C). Check temperature
with an oven thermometer or the Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer (#43175).
Use of Oven Tray
Make sure the oven is clean. Use aluminum foil to keep racks and oven
interior clean. Practice moving part from area where powder will be
applied to inside the oven to avoid damaging the uncured powder you
will soon apply.
Coating Porous Materials
In some cases, contaminants in porous materials will cause pits in
the powder. Porous cast iron, die cast, cast aluminum and magnesium
parts trap contaminants, that, when heated will out gas and cause
porosity problems when the powder is cured. See preheating, below.
Preheating the Part
To prevent porosity from occurring, preheat the part. The time that
a part needs to be preheated varies with size. Preheat to between
200°F and 400°F. Use PRE Painting Prep to remove the newly exposed
contaminants. Wipe the part repeatedly until no further dirt comes
off on a clean white rag. Let the part cool to room temperature before
applying the powder.
Containing Powder Overspray
Put down a clean plastic tarp in the area you will be applying powder
to ease cleanup. Preparing
to Powder Coat
Filling the gun with powder
Use a clean sheet of paper or a funnel to pour the powder into the
cup. Fill the cup no more than 1" or 2" with your color of choice.
See
photo. Tip: Handle powder as if you were handling liquid paint.
Use clean disposable gloves when handling powder to avoid contamination.
Keep powder containers tightly closed.
Attaching the Air Supply to the Gun
Connect a low pressure air line to the gun. The gun requires .5 or
more cfm at 5 - 10 psi, with 8 psi being ideal. If you do not have
an air compressor, a portable air tank with regulator can be used.
The air must be moisture and oil free. Caution: Never exceed the
10 psi!
Connecting the Ground Clip
Connect the ground clip to the part you are powder coating. Grounding
the part provides a path for static charges to dissipate. Touch gun
emitter to ground clip after each time activator switch is released!
See
photo.
Checking the Gun Spray Pattern
Note: Before using the gun make sure that the 3 static tubes are in
place and deflector installed. Pull the gun trigger to check the pattern.
Unlike regular paint guns, the HotCoat® gun creates a fog of charged
particles. See
photo. Application of
Powder
Caution: Before plugging in the unit,
make sure that all the cords are uncoiled and free to move (do not
depress the activation switch).
Hold the gun at various positions and angles to get the best application
of powder over the entire part.
Application of Powder
Plug the power supply into a grounded outlet. Maintain approximately
8 inches between the gun tip and part being coated. Depress the activation
switch while triggering the gun. Depressing the activation switch
energizes the gun, charging the powder. Releasing the switch turns
the power off. Once the activation switch has been released, a slight
charge will remain in the gun until the emitter is touched to the
ground clip. Be sure to touch the emitter to the ground clamp before
touching the emitter. Move the gun in slightly different angles to
ensure that all areas of the part are covered. Be sure to coat deeper
crevices and inside corners first to prevent uneven coating. The coated
surface will have a dull opaque coating of powder. Make sure all areas
of the part are coated evenly. Powder can sometimes be difficult to
apply in deep recessed areas or into corners. Try repositioning the
part to allow gravity to help assure coverage in corners and reposition
the the gun as shown above. Practice on some scrap pieces of metal
to obtain a uniform coating.
Before Touching or Cleaning the Emitter
The gun becomes less efficient as powder builds up on the gun emitter.
To remove powder buildup from the emitter, release the activation
switch, and momentarily touch the emitter to the ground clamp (the
resulting spark indicates the system is now discharged). Wipe off
the electrode with a dry cloth. When you are finished applying the
powder to the part, release the activation switch, touch the emitter
to the ground clip, set the gun down and unplug the power unit.
Curing the Powder
Loading Part into the Oven
Make sure the path to the oven is clear and oven is up to the required
cure temperature. Now, using a pair of pliers (if necessary) and wearing
leather faced Buffing Gloves (#31010),
place the part in the oven. Be sure not to bump or disturb the powder.
See photo.
Curing the Powder Finish
Cure the part in the oven for the time indicated on the powder container
(usually 20 minutes). Note: Larger parts may require additional
time for a complete cure. During the cure process the powder gradually
melts, changing from a dull flat finish to a smooth gloss finish.
When coating parts such as intake manifolds or wheels keep checking
every 5 minutes until you see the powder start to gloss over. When
the entire part completely glosses over, cure for an additional 20
minutes. If after 35 minutes the coating hasn't flowed out see the
trouble
shooting section. Make sure you have an accurate timing system.
If parts are left in the oven too long, the coating may become rough
and will need to be removed and redone.
Safety Note: Always cure powder in a well-ventilated area and wear
an activated charcoal respirator while curing to protect against unpleasant
fumes.
Once the curing is complete, allow the part to cool down gradually
by turning the oven off and opening the door slightly. Note: Cooling
too quickly may dull the sheen of some finishes.
Tip: If after curing you notice some areas have been missed, you can
recoat the entire part or use our 1-Shot
Lettering enamels for touch up. If necessary to improve gloss,
or level slight orange peel, cured powder can be wet sanded with 400
grit wet or dry paper and compounded to a high luster with conventional
paint polishes or buffed using White
Rouge on a Loose
Section buffing wheel. Keep the part moving during buffing because
localized heat build up will cause melting and leave a rough surface.
Clean Up
Cleaning the Gun
When you are finished using a particular color, you must clean the
gun before using another color. To clean the unit, unplug it so no
voltage is in the unit. To discharge the gun, touch the emitter to
the ground clip. Disconnect the air supply. To avoid moisture pickup,
DO NOT store powder in the gun-mounted cup!
Now the gun is safe to handle. Unscrew the cup, pour the remaining
powder back into the can. Using compressed air, clean the discharge
and pick up tubes, cup, static tubes, and deflector thoroughly with
no more than 30 psi compressed air. (TIP: use clean disposable
gloves during all gun cleaning operations). With your disposable
nitrile
or vinyl gloves on, gently twist off the deflector and remove the
three static tubes. Using your blow gun thoroughly clean the inside
and outside of all the static tubes and deflector. You may also find
it convenient to use the Engine Cleaning Brush Set (#46035).
It is important to keep your dust mask on while cleaning the gun.
It is NOT RECOMMENDED to recycle the powder that landed on the floor.
Only pure, uncontaminated powder is to be returned to the storage
can. Powder collected on a clean tarp or from a clean box can be recycled
if it is strained through a paint strainer. Keep the powder can tightly
closed to prevent moisture absorption. Mixing with other powders and
dust can cause pits in the surface. Do not use solvents when cleaning
your powder coating system. The gun and components are to be cleaned
with compressed air only. To make your clean up even easier, use our
14 Pc. Compressor Accessory Kit (#43223).
Using the extensions in this set allow you to blow the powder right
out of the gun.
Direct air into the nozzle and the pick up tube to make sure no powder
remains. The only other cleaning necessary is to clean up the powder
on the floor or workspace.
WARNING: Powder dust in heavy concentrations is potentially flammable!
Due to a possible explosion risk never use an electric vacuum, shop
vac, or wet/dry vac to clean up powder! Reusing
the Powder
Powder swept from a clean tarp can be
poured through a strainer for reuse. You can only reuse it when you
are positive that you had a clean drop cloth and the powder is not
contaminated by any foreign matter. Contaminated powder may cause
pits and orange peel. Contaminated powder can be safely disposed of
in the trash.
Caution: Before reconnecting your powder gun be sure to change
the air pressure from 30 psi back to 8 psi ! The cup and lid assemblies
are designed for no more than 10 psi. Replace your moisture filter
regularly, as moisture will build up even when the gun is not in use.
Putting Parts Back in Service
Powder coating is an extremely durable
flexible coating. However care needs to be exercised when bolting
powder coated components in place. To avoid chipping use washers under
nut and bolt heads.
Tips on care of powder coated surfaces
Powder coated surfaces easily shed dirt. Wash with a dish soap and
water solution. Automotive (nonabrasive paint polish) may be used
to remove water spotting and enhance the gloss. Removing
Cured Powder
The coating can be removed using Eastwood's
Aircraft and Automotive Paint Remover (#34069Z).
Remember powder coatings are more solvent resistant than other coatings
and may require more time than paint to remove. To speed results,
cover the part with a heavy coating of remover and cover the remover
with a plastic bag to prevent evaporation. Warnings
Safety: Read and understand all
instructions and precautions before proceeding. This unit uses high
voltage, and uses powder which may become flammable under certain
circumstances. Eastwood shall not be held liable for consequences
due to deliberate or unintentional misuse of this product.
DANGER: UNUSUAL FLAMMABILITY HAZARD! Powder coating dust, when
confined and suspended in air, poses a definite fire and explosion
hazard if ignited. Good housekeeping, adequate ventilation, dust control
and isolation from potential ignition sources is required! Sweep up
unused powder from the floor. Do Not Vacuum unless the vacuum is equipped
with an explosion proof motor! Never smoke while powder coating. Do
not apply powder coat near any source of ignition, e.g. open flames,
sparks, etc. Do not use a gas oven for curing powder coatings: use
only an electric oven that is in good repair. Use the same precautions
that you would for liquid solvent based coatings.
DANGER: HIGH VOLTAGE! READ AND UNDERSTAND ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING!
The power supply is a sealed unit and contains no user serviceable
parts! Contact with the emitter will result in an unpleasant shock!
To eliminate the shock hazard, touch the emitter to the ground clip
after each use. (If you have a medical condition or pacemaker check
with your doctor before using.) Electrical
Safety Tips
Electrical Safety Do's
- Make sure you, your work area,
and your equipment are dry.
- If you are using an extension
cord, make sure it is in sound condition with no damage or frays,
and of the correct wire gauge.
Electrical Safety Dont's
- Never bypass the ground plug.
Grounding is important for operation of the unit and prevents
shock.
- Do not touch the emitter until
after the activation switch is released and the emitter has been
touched to the ground clip. Once you are spraying the part with
the powder, avoid touching the gun to the part or other grounded
objects.
- Do not step on, kink, or pull
the wires. Before using the gun inspect the condition of all wires.
- Do not use a vacuum unless it
is equipped with an explosion proof motor.
- Do not touch or hold the part
while coating.
Personal Safety Tips:
- The powder is considered a nuisance
dust and and consists primarily of pulverized plastic (polyurethane
or polyester).
- Wear a Dust
Mask to protect your lungs when handling, applying powder
and clean up!
- Oven cure powder coat in an electric
oven only. Use an oven other than the one used for food, as mildly
toxic fumes are given off by the powder residue during the curing
process.
- Always work in a well-ventilated
area! Wear an activated charcoal respirator when oven curing the
powder.
Environmental Concerns
Powder can be safely disposed of with
the household trash. Powder coating minimizes the EPA's concerns over
VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) and solvents because there are no
solvents used when applying powder, or cleanup. Troubleshooting
Pitted Finish
Make sure part is completely cleaned of all contaminants with Metal
Wash (#10120)
or PRE Painting Prep (#10041Z).
Coating Porous Materials
In some cases, contaminants in porous materials will cause pits
in the powder. If this occurs remove the powder coat with Eastwood's
Paint Remover, rinse with water, and spray with PRE Painting Prep.
Porous cast iron, die cast, cast aluminum, and magnesium parts trap
contaminants that, when heated, will outgas and cause porosity problems
when the powder is cured. To avoid this follow preheating instructions
below.
Preheating
To prevent porosity from occurring, preheat the part. The time that
a part needs to be preheated varies with size. Preheat to between
200°F and 400°F. Use PRE Painting Prep to remove the newly exposed
contaminants. Wipe the part repeatedly until no further contaminants
come off on a clean white rag. Let the part cool to room temperature
before applying the powder.
Orange Peel
"Orange Peel" is a rough surface resembles the surface condition
that texture of an orange. A certain amount of orange peel is unavoidable
especially with polyester based powders. An orange peel condition
can often be removed by sanding the part with 400 grit sand paper
(wet or dry) and finishing as you would conventional liquid finishes.
If you want to buff by hand use Autosol polish. Another cause of
rough finish condition is excessive powder build up. You will know
if powder build up occurs because the powder will start to stand
on its end like hair. If this happens, stop applying powder and
with light air pressure blow off some of the powder. If powder does
not apply evenly due to moisture build up, replace moisture trap
on gun and use fresh powder. Cured powder can be finished in the
same manner as liquid paint.
Poor Spray Pattern
If the gun does not spray, the air pressure could be too low. Moisture
could be clogging the Disposable Filter (#34066).
Replace if necessary. The level of powder in the cup should be at
least one inch deep from the bottom of the cup to flow efficiently
through the gun.
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